Mortgages and home buying
How Much House Can You Afford? The 28/36 Rule Explained
How lenders turn your income and debts into a monthly limit, and how that limit becomes a home price.
"How much house can I afford?" sounds like a question about price, but lenders answer it with a question about your monthly budget. They look at how much of your income is already spoken for, work out the largest payment you can safely carry, and only then turn that payment into a price. Once you understand that process, you can do the same sums yourself before you start looking at homes.
The short version
- Most conventional lenders use the 28/36 rule: housing costs up to 28% of gross monthly income, and all debts together up to 36%.
- The lower of the two limits is your housing budget, and the price follows from that budget, the interest rate and your down payment.
- Interest rates and other monthly debts change the price you can afford by tens of thousands of dollars.
- Taxes, insurance and upkeep are part of the cost, so the lender's limit is a ceiling and not a comfortable target.
The two ratios lenders use
Both ratios use your gross income, which is your pay before tax, and they are written as a debt-to-income ratio, or DTI.
- Front-end ratio: your monthly housing cost (loan payment, property tax and insurance, plus any HOA dues) divided by your gross monthly income. The usual limit is 28%.
- Back-end ratio: your housing cost plus every other monthly debt payment, such as car loans, student loans and credit card minimums, divided by gross monthly income. The usual limit is 36%.
These are guidelines. Government-backed loans are more flexible: an FHA loan may allow about 31% and 43%, and VA loans use a single ratio of around 41%. A strong credit score and a large down payment can also persuade a lender to go higher, but that does not mean the payment will feel comfortable.
A worked example
Suppose you earn $90,000 a year, which is $7,500 a month before tax, and you pay $500 a month toward a car loan and a student loan.
- Front-end limit: $7,500 × 28% = $2,100 for housing.
- Back-end limit: $7,500 × 36% = $2,700 for all debts. Subtract your $500 of other debts and $2,200 is left for housing.
- Take the lower figure: $2,100 a month is the most you can put toward housing.
Now turn the payment into a price. Assume a 30-year loan at 6.5%, a 20% down payment, property tax of 1.1% of the price a year and $1,500 a year for insurance. The housing payment is the loan payment plus about $428 of tax and insurance, so working backwards from $2,100 gives a home price of about $331,000, a loan of about $265,000 and a down payment of about $66,000.
How the interest rate changes the answer
The same budget buys a very different home when rates move. Because most of a payment on a long loan is interest, a one-point change in the rate shifts the price by roughly eight to nine percent.
View the numbers behind the interest-rate chart
| Interest rate | Housing budget | Home price you can afford | Loan amount (20% down) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5.5% | $2,100 | $362,000 | $289,000 |
| 6.5% | $2,100 | $331,000 | $265,000 |
| 7.5% | $2,100 | $303,000 | $243,000 |
Why other debts matter so much
Every dollar you owe each month on other debts comes out of the back-end budget. At first the front-end limit protects you, because it is the smaller number. But once other debts pass about $600 a month in this example, the back-end rule takes over and each extra dollar of debt takes a dollar from your housing budget.
The lender's limit is not your budget
The ratios only look at what a lender counts. They leave out costs that are real for you: maintenance, utilities, furniture, commuting, savings and the occasional emergency repair. A common rule of thumb is to set aside about 1% to 2% of the home's value every year for upkeep.
If that total feels tight, aim lower than the lender's ceiling. Many buyers choose a price that keeps the housing cost at 25% of gross income or less, or at about a third of take-home pay.
Ways to raise what you can afford
- Pay down other debts before applying, starting with those that have the highest monthly payment relative to the balance.
- Save a larger down payment. It reduces the loan, and at 20% it avoids private mortgage insurance on a conventional loan.
- Improve your credit score, which can lower your interest rate and widen your options.
- Add income that lenders can count, such as a co-borrower with steady pay.
- Compare loan types, since FHA and VA loans have different limits and costs.
Common mistakes
- Using take-home pay where the lender uses gross pay, or the other way round, and then comparing the results.
- Leaving out property tax, insurance and HOA dues, which can be several hundred dollars a month.
- Treating the pre-approval amount as a target. It is the most a lender will lend, not what you should spend.
- Forgetting closing costs, moving costs and the cash needed to furnish the home.
- Basing the plan on today's rate and not checking what happens if it is a point higher.
Common questions
What is the 28/36 rule?
It is a guideline that housing costs should be no more than 28% of your gross monthly income and your total monthly debts no more than 36%. Lenders use it to set the largest payment you can borrow for.
Do lenders use gross or net income?
Gross income, which is your pay before taxes and other deductions. That is why a payment that passes the ratios can still feel high against your take-home pay.
Does a bigger down payment let me afford a more expensive house?
Yes. A larger down payment reduces the loan for any price, so the same monthly budget supports a higher price. It can also remove the need for private mortgage insurance at 20% on a conventional loan.
How much should I keep in savings after buying?
Many advisers suggest keeping an emergency fund of three to six months of expenses after paying the down payment and closing costs, so that a repair or a job gap does not become a crisis.
Is it better to rent or buy?
It depends on how long you will stay, local prices and rents, and what you could earn on the money otherwise. Our Rent vs. Buy Calculator compares the long-term cost of each.
Sources and further reading
- Consumer Financial Protection Bureau: Buying a house
- CFPB: What is private mortgage insurance?
- CFPB: What is an escrow account?
This guide is for general education and is not financial advice. The ratios, rates and costs in the examples are illustrations. Lenders set their own limits, so talk to a licensed lender about your own situation.
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